Costumes of different states in India

Andra Pradesh

Traditional attire of Andra Pradesh
The common men's dress in this region consists of Dothi, Shirt or Jubha (Kurta). The Dothi is about 2 meter long which is worn around the waist like Lungi. Working classmen generally wear short dhothi and folded about the knee. In costal region men use a scarf and in rural areas people use a hand woven towel over the shoulder when they dont wear any upper garment. Muslim's wear colored and stripped Lungi, shirt or Kurta and towel.
Women of Andra Pradesh mainly wear Saree and Blouse. Saree is called "Chira" and the blouse is called as "Ravikai". There are 2 different methods to wear saree. Earlier "Ravikai" the upper garment was like that of Maharashtrian Choli which is fasten in front by knotting the 2 sides flaps. Now "Ravikai" with modern cut it replaced by the old one. The grown up girls wear Ravikai with a long skirt pleated all around. Over the skirt, they wear "Pammatta" (Half-Saree) which does not fully cover the skirt. Some muslim women wear Salwar Kameez.

Arunachal Pradesh

Traditional attire of Arunachal Pradesh
Arunachal Pradesh is a tribal state where socio-culture life blends many traditions and cultures. There are different dressing styles in various parts of the state amoung various tribes. Geometrical patterns like angular designs and zig-zag lines and stripes are most popular here. The type of designs and colors states the symbolic meaning of each tribe. Women wear a full sleeve jackets, sleeveless garment with embroidery with a skirt or petticoat accompanied with a waistcoat or a "Mushaiks". "Gurdam", a skull cap filled with Yak hair is used as a headress. During ceremonial occasions as a part of social status women wear a belt around their waist which is also the symbolic representation of a married women. They also wear a yellow necklace with coiled earrings. The most important accessory worn during the wedding ceremony is a blue colored beaded chain known as "BianSipi". The male costume during weddings include KamkoTop (men's bangles) and a sword called "Bauhche".


Traditional attire of Coorg
The Coorg's have their own characterstics dress for both men and women. Coorg men wear trousers, shirt and coat on festival occasions. They use dark color front open coat reaching below the knees. The sleeves of the coat reaches just below the elbows expressing the arm of the white shirt, worn under the thick coat. A red color or blue color shades of cotton or silk is worn around the waist. A turban which is large and flat at the top is worn covering the nape of the neck.
Coorg women wear saree in a special way. First end of the saree is wrapped around the waist and tied by a string. After forming pleats, its tucked at the back instead of front. Other free end is brought from behind and under right arm and by covering the bossom, the saree is fastened under the left arm. The rest portion is taken to the front through right shoulder, sometimes this end is being used to cover the head as if like Kashmiris. The head is covered with a scarf colored scarf.


Traditional dress of Gujarat
Gujarat is another state which have bright color in their costume. It has a mixture of costume, since it has an influence of both Rajasthan & Uttar Pradesh. In female garment both Saree & Ghaghra are popular. The saree is worn over a petticoat. The difference is that the petticoat of Gujarati women's are tailored with great care and much decoration. Gujarati style of wearing the saree is similar to the style of Uttar Pradesh. The front pleats are shown very elaborately. The Gujarati saree are mainly 8-9 yards in length and almost half of this goes into the pleats. The "Choli" is worn along the saree and is open at the back and fastened with strings, very tightly.
The saree of Gujarati ladies are richly bordered. The borders are either heavily printed or woven along the length. The fabric of Gujarat are famous for their beautiful designs. Another prominent garment is Ghaghra, Choli and Orhna, which are well decorated with beautiful designs with "Kutch work" and "Mirror work" mainly use for ceremonial occassions. They use nose rings and toe rings after marriage and they also give importance to "Mangalya Sutra" which hangs on a black beeded chain. Sometimes they wear anklets.
The male garment of Gujarat have two pieces. The upper garment is short fit Kurta with gathers at the down portion. The length of kurta is just upto the waist or just above the thigh. The lower garment is Dhothi but they also use a tight fit salwar. The dhothi is mostly tucked at the back waist. They use turban as the head dress, which is almost similar to that of Rajasthan. During wedding ceremony they also wear "Sherwani".
Traditional attire of Haryana
The influence of Punjab are seen in the costume of Haryana particularly on the border area. In the southern region away from the border of Punjab, we find men wearing Dhothi, Kurta or Shirt and Turbans. A cotton "Chadar" or blanket is used as an upper garment especially in winter. There are mainly 3 communities in Haryana - Jat, Rajput and Ahir and they tie their turban in their own styles.
The women of these 3 communities have prominent difference in their dresses. A Jat women wear's a "Ghaghri" (skirt), shirt and a printed Orna. The Ghaghri resumbles the Rajasthan Ghaghra. The color they prefer are Red or Black. The women's shirt is of like that of men's shirt with full sleeve collar and cuff. It may be long or short. When the fashion changes younger women prefer Salwar-Kameez. The Ahir women wear a skirt called "Lehenga" and a blouse called "Angia" with an Orna. The Orna is broad enough to cover the bossom. It is generally Red or Yellow with silver fringes. The dress of Rajput women is similar to that of Ahir women but Orna is of white fringes.
Himachal Pradesh
Traditional attire of Himachal Pradesh
There are different communities in this state but the most dominating community is Daddi. Himachal Pradesh is another state which in surrounded with snow and mountians. The universal dress of Himachal Pradesh is called "Chola" which resembles gown, the length reaches upto the ankles having full sleeves. Both the sleeves as well as the body part is loose fitted. The "Chola" is made of thick woolen material. They usually dont use innergarments. Now the wool is transformed to cotton and the length reduced til the calf along with this a lower garment is used which is tight fit. In certain part of Himachal Pradesh the "Pheran" and "Salwar" is also popular. The Gaddi's wear an oval shaped cap as headress which are richly decorated with bead work. Sometimes with silver ornaments and feathers. The male garment is also similar to that of female but they don't use any lower garment. Even the headress is same for men. Female use rich ornaments especially neck ornaments, earings which are ornamented with shells, beads and other such materials.
Traditional dress of Jammu
It's a state which is situated Northern most part of India. This state has got maximum Muslim influence in their tradition, custom and also in their costume. They also have the influence of state of Punjab. The female garment is Salwar Kameez with a difference that it is very loose fitted. The upper garment is called "Pheran". The length is upto the mid-thigh or calf. It hangs loose over the body and also over the sleeves. They also have a sleeveless jacket under the Pheran. The lower garment is also very loose and the length may be either till the end of the leg or covering the foot. A scarf which is similar that of dupatta is worn over the head, which is tied along with the hair and the remaining portion is sometimes brought to the front. The scarf is decorated with typical embroidery design. The usage of jewellery is more, especially silver ornaments. They use a huge earings which covers maximum part of the ear and also hangs down. They used a typical type of ornament to cover the forehead and it resembles as if the end of the scarf is attached with this ornament. Sometimes the forehead ornament is continued to the earing. They also use bangles. They use fine wool of hilly goat which are soft. They also use brocade shawls called "Chenar" which is embroided with "Kashida" work.
The male garment is "Kafthan". This is a loose garment. It has two parts - The upper garment and the lower garment. The upper garment is a long kurta with full sleeve which are loose at the top and towards the lower portion it becomes little bit tight. It has curve ends rather than pointed ends like ordinary kurta. The length is upto the knee. The lower garment is fastened at the waist, the length continues till the end of the leg. It is highly pleated at the top and towards bottom it becomes tight. They use a head dress which is a cap made of either wool or fine cotton. Sometimes they also use a coat over the Kafthan, which is half sleeve coat with front opening and the length is upto the waist. They use footwear with flat heels.
Traditional attire of Karnataka
In Karnataka men use Dhothi called "Dhotara" with a narrow colored border on each sides. It is drapped around the waist with a costerier tuck as found in Maharashtra. Younger men wrap a colored or white shorter piece of cloth called "Pancha" like lungi in Kerala. This style of wearing the lower garments in prevailed in all the 4 Southern States. Shirt or banians covers the upper part of the body. Elders often use a piece of cloth on their shoulders "Angavastra" and there are 2 types of headdress "Pheta" and "Rumal". Rumal is a large piece of cloth and is not oftenly used. "Pheta" is used by the Mysore people. The border is attached with a lace.
The dress of women consist a saree called a "Seere" and blouse, which is tight fitted and known as "Kuppasa". The saree has white borders called "Aona". Muslim costume is one the colourful one. Muslim women wear either saree and bloue or pyjama and full sleeve shirt.
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Traditional attire of Kerala
Kerala is a state with temporate climate enhanced with greenary allover. There are different communities and all the communities have similar pattern of dressing. The male garment - a lower garment Dhothi which is wrapped around the waist and tucked at the front waist. They usually wear a upper garment, but they also use a small piece of square fabric on their shoulders. They usually don't use any footwear or headdress. The use of headdress is conditional depending upon the community.
A female garment basically have 2 piece, upper garment and lower garment. The upper portion is tight fit garment with sleeves which may be either short or 3/4 in length. The length of the garment ranges from midriff to the waist. The lower garment is a rectangular piece of fabric which is tucked at the waist (front) after drapping around the waist. They use ornaments made of gold. They used bangle, necklace, earings, anklets etc. This is a state where there is no specific color used during wedding ceremony. Married women give very much importance to "Mangalsutra" or "Thali". It's the main symbol of married women. Teenagers use skirt, blouse or a frock.
Traditional attire of Maharasthra
The female garment is 2 piece garment - the saree and blouse. The saree is long length of fine cotton with bright color. It has prominent border at both the sides and the pallu will be same as the border. To drape this saree there is no need of a supporting garment or a petticoat. It is drapped in such a manner that the 2 legs have seperate passage as the of a Dhothi. The saree is first tuck at the waist and is taken cross wise through each leg till the end of the leg which is tucked at the back. The remaining portion is taken from the back and put in the same manner and as normal drapping style. The border of the saree is prominently shown by drapping in between the legs. Sometimes the remaining pallu which usually hangs down the shoulder is taken over the head. The main ornament of married women is Mangal Sutra which is always put on a black beaded chain. They also use toe-rings and nose-rings. It is a small round shape ring which is exposed to the outer side and is called Nathini. During special occasions, they wear another nose-ring on the nose ridge. Maharashtrian ladies usually wear pearl ornaments.
The men garment consists of a lower and upper garment. The lower garment is Dhothi which is tuck at the back and the upper garment is a tight fit shirt with short sleeves. Along with this certain special community especially fishermen uses another type of garment. In this, the women garment is similar to that of normal Maharashtrian style. The length of the saree is just below the knees. The male costume has an upper garment and the lower garment which is made of short length fabric and is wrapped around the waist, in such a manner that the front gives a 'V' shape and the length is up to the knees and the back is covered till the midthigh or just below the hips. The upper garment of the ladies is Choli which doesnot have any fastners at the lower portion the waist wide is extended with the same fabric of the garment and is tightened by knotting. The Maharastrain ladies usually tuck their hair and occasionally put flowers.
Traditional attire of Orissa
The common male dress is "Dhothi" which is here called as "Dhooti". The Dhooti is worn around the waist in the style of Northern India with pleats in front is called "Koncha" and back pleats is called "MalKoncha" or "Kancha". For the sake of convinence and free movements many people shorten the length of the tucks. The pleats are known as "Phera" or "Oria". No undergarments were used along the Dhooti. Nowerdays, people who live in town area usually use undergarments.
The women of Orissa has a costume similar to that of South Bengal. They use saree as their main costume which is more than 5 meters in length. The free end of the saree is drawn from the right hip to cover the bossom diagonally and goes over the left shoulder. The free end of the saree "Anchal" is thrown over the left shoulder in formal wear. In mordern style the saree is drapped close to the body and the remaining portion is gathered up neatly and placed on the left shoulder. The saree is commonly provided with a beautiful borders called "Dhardia". In urban areas women wear a blouse, in village few women only wear blouses, others drap the saree so artfully that they don't feel the need of a blouse.
Traditional dress of Punjab
The Punjab's are found to be one of the most active people of India. It is very much famous for wheat cultivation. The main occupation of the people is connected with agriculture. The attire of this region is one of the basic attires of India.
The female garment includes Salwar Kameez with a long shawl called Dupatta of about 3 to 3.5 yards in length called as Dupatta. Salwar is a lower garment which is tied at the waist and has seperate channels for each leg with length is till the end of the leg. It is a loose garment highly pleated at the top. The Kameez is an upper garment which is tight fit and length is upto the mid thigh. The sleeves are also tight fit with a length of 3/4th of the arm. Along with this, Dupatta is worn in a manner, in which the middle portion cover the bosom and the two ends are hung down at the back over the shoulder. It plays a very important role in girl's status. Matured girls and married women's have to cover their head with Dupatta in front of the their elders, especially male members. In bridal costume Red colour with "Rich work of golden threads" are used. They don't give much importance to ornaments, but married women have to wear nose rings and toe ring. During marriage ceremony they also use Red glass bangles.
For male the upper garment is a long kameez called "Kurta". The length is upto the knee, which is loose fitted. The lower garment is a square shaped fabric which is wrapped around the waist. The length is just above the ankle. It is drapped in such a manner that the end pleats which are at the bottom will be longer and when it comes up it becomes shorter. The pleats are tucked in the waist. A typical community called "Sikh" which is found only in Punjab, uses a typical head dress called "Pagadi" or "Turban". It is a very narrow piece of material which has to be folded and knotted in a typical manner which is raised at the front and towards back it goes down. The finished Turban can be easily worn and taken off like a cap. Men of other community wear head dress, occassionally which are made of short piece of cloth compared to that of Pagadi's length. The knotting style is also different. During wedding ceremony they use "Sherwani".
Traditional attire of Rajasthan
Rajasthan is a state of dry weather. To overcome this dullness they prefer bright colors. A female costume of this state is "Ghaghra", a skirt with high vertical gathers or pleats. The length of skirt starts from the waist, till just above the ankle. "Ghaghra" is worn along with an upper garment called "Choli". The Choli has short sleeve and the body length is upto the midriff. The Choli is back open and is fasten with the help of strings. It covers the back part. The Ghaghra and choli is continued with the help of "Veil", which is tucked at the front waist and its taken from back over the right shoulder covering the front portion. Married women cover their head with the help of "Orna" before placing it to the front. In the bridal costume, the sleeves of the Choli, hemline of the skirt or Ghaghra and Veil is highly decorated with mirror and metal work. Married women gives much importance to toe rings. Rajasthani girls usually use nose rings and also bangles to cover their hands. The portion between the end of the Choli sleeve and elbow is also covered with the help of typical type of bangles. They also use head ornament which has an embossed effect. They use a thick anklets which covers a portion between the end of the skirt and the end of the leg. Rajasthan women use heavy silver ornaments.
The male garment includes an upper garment called "Kurta" which has a length just below the waist or till the thighs. They wear a headress which is called "Turban" or "Pakadi" which is made of long cotton fabric. The headress is worn by all men and sometimes by small boys. The members of the royal family use a pointed footwear, which has no heals.
Traditional attire of Tamilnadu
In Tamilnadu, Dhothi is known as "Vasthi" which is worn with a tuck in different ways. Commonly they used Dhothi or "Ottavasthi" as if like lungi in Kerala without an upper garment, instead they use a scarf called "Angavastra". The length of the saree varies from 6-9 meters. The standard mode of wearing saree is "Madisar". The saree is known as "Sclai" or "Pudavai". This style of wearing saree is like that of Brahmins. They use a tight fit blouse called "Ravaikai". The grown up girls use "Dhavani". They use full skirt with more pleats along with a blouse and a shawl to cover the bosom as if like saree. This half saree is known as "Dhavani".
Uttar Pradesh
Traditional attire of Uttar Pradesh
Uttar Pradesh is an important state in Indian history for their costume because it has a blend of both Hindu and Muslim culture along with the blend of costumes. Ghaghra and Choli are worn and well accepted by the Hindu women. The prominant garment of female include saree and blouse. The Ghaghra, Choli and Veil are worn in a typical style and a similar pattern is maintained even for the saree. Saree is supported with the help of basic garment called Petticoat. The upper garment or the blouse, may or may not have sleeves. The saree is wrapped starting from the front waist. It is then pleated neatly and it tucked at the front waist. The remaining portion is taken from the back and falls over the bust through the right shoulder. There are 2 types of sarees, one is of standard length about 5.5 yards and other of shorter length. The short saree has a resumblance with Orna. The capital of Uttar Pradesh, Lucknow is an old city famous for white thread work known as "Chickenkari". Most of the cotton sarees of Uttar Pradesh have this typical work and enchances the beauty of the garment. One of the famous silk work is "Brocades" and the Banras saree which are used as an asset during wedding, on sarees and fabrics using metallic gold and silver thread. The nose ornament is a custom during the wedding ceremony and they continue wearing it even after marriage. The toe ring is another symbol of a married women. They also give improtance to Sindhoor and Bindhi.
The male garment has 2 pieces the upper garment Kurta which is a loose garment of full sleeve and the length ranges from mid-thigh to the end of the knees. In usual cases they wont use headress, but during ceromonial occasions they use turban. Their drapping style is different from other states and it reveals personal respects or status. During weddings they use a long kurta or Sharwani with a tight fitted lower garment along with flat pointed footwear.
West Bengal
Traditional attire of West Bengal
The typical women costume of West Bengal is "Saree". There are different styles in wearing this saree namely "Kalna", "Dhoka", "Nadia", "Jalpaipuri", "Santhal"... These different styles are originated from different communities of the society. Each style has its own typical charecterstics. Nadia is most and well accepted style. The traditional saree of the Bengali ladies is called "Sanatpuri". It has crapped effect and it is made of fine cotton. The body is of cream or white color with bright red color. The pallu differs according to the end use. In this type, drapping is done while tucking the first layer, wrapping around the pleats and are tucked at the front. The remaining length is allowed to fold diagonally over the bossom which is taken back over the left shoulder under the armpit. In case of married women they have to cover their head and at the end of the saree a bunch of keys are tied. The married women usually wear a lot of bangles especially a pair of bangles made of shell, which is white and red. They attract with very big Bindi and the also use toe ring.
The male In case of men the most common costume style is Kurta & Dhothi. The Dhothi is long fine material which is tucked either at the front or at the back and length is til the ankle. Sometimes after tucking the certain amount of cloth is left untucked. This usually is held by hands and reveals the social status of the person. They don't have headdress.

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