Silk - Procedure, Properties and Types

Silk is a natural protein fiber, some forms of which can be woven into textiles. Except silk other protein fibres are weaker than cellulostic fibres. Silk is the strongest and the longest natural fibre. It is produced by a caterpillar called silk worm. To make its Cocoon a substance is extended from its body in one continuous strand from begining to end. It is possible to unwind the Cocoon to obtain silk filament. China is the leading silk producer of the world. Other major silk producing countries includes Japan, India and Italy.

Silk Procedure

The life cycle of silk worm encircles in four stages - the egg, the silkworm, the pupa and the moth.A large quantity of silk is produced by "Seri-culture", a method to produce silk by domesticating the silk worm.

Seri-culture

Production of Cocoon for their filament is called Sericulture. In sericulture, the silkworm is domesticated on mulberry trees and after laying of eggs it is collected to give incubation in a mildly warm atmosphere. At the end of 30 days (the time to require hatching of eggs) Silkworm hatches. They are about 1/8th inch. The young Silkworm requires care and carefully controlled diets. Shedded or chopped mulberry leaves are fed to the worms 5 times each day. The area in which worms are grows is kept clean for about a month. The worm grows gradually and the fully grown worms are about 3 inches in length. Only these moths are selected as breeding stock and are permitted to complete the cycle. The Cocoon is formed by silkworm in 2-3 days. The silk worm begins to spin a cocoon by letting out fibroin a gummy material, moving its head in the shape of "8".

Reeling of Silk

The cocoons are sorted according to the color, size, shape and texture. Reeling is the process of unwinding the silk filaments from the cocoon and combining them together to make a thread of raw silk. Several cocoons are placed in a container of warm water, which helps to remove the gummy substance and the filament of silk are removed and filled on reel to form silk. The filament from 3 10 cocoons are held together to form a strand of yarn.

Properties of Silk

1. Color

The natural color of cultivated silk is off white to cream. A different kind of silk known as Wild Silk is browm

2. Luster

The luster of degummed silk is high but not so bright as manufactured fibres.

3. Environmental Properties

a)		Moths doesnt harm silk but insects may attack it. Direct sunlight will destroy the fabric.
b)		It absorbs moisture.
c)		It is cool to wear in the summer yet warm to wear in winter.

Important silk producing worm is Bombyxmori (Latin word for Silkworm of the mulberry tree).
Main protein of silk is serisin and fibron.
Silk is known as the Queen of Textiles.

Silkmark

Silk Mark was an initiative of Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India, SilkMark Organisation of India.

Silk Mark - Ministry of Textiles, Govt of India

Types of Silks

1. Mulberry Silk

The mulberry silkworm Bombyxmori feed on Mulberry leaves and is the only domesticated silkworm reared indoors.Origin : Karanataka, Andra Pradesh, Jammu & Kashmir, Tamilnadu

2. Vanya Silk

The commercially produced Vanya Silks are the Tussar, Eri and Muga produced exclusively by India.

3. Tussar Silk

Indian Tussar, copperish in color is produced by the silkworm "Antherea Mylitta" which thrives on Asan and Arjun,out in the open nature. Origin : Orissa, West Bengal, Andrapradesh.

4. Eri Silk

Eri also known as Endi or Errandi, with its matt finish is produced by Endi Silkworm Philosamia Ricini domesticatedand reared indoors on castor leaves. Endi is blended with cotton, wool, jute and even mulberry silk to createpremium fashion accessories and home furnishing. Eri Silk is also called as "Ahimsa Silk" because it is obtained from without killing the moth.Origin : Assam, West Bengal, Orissa, Bihar

5. Muga Silk

Muga silk obtained from semidomesticated silkworm "Antheraca Assamensis" feeds on the leaves of Som and Soalu plants.Muga is available in different shades of natural gold. Muga silk is generally used in filament form.Origin : Assam

Mulberry Varieties

Plain Silk Fabrics
A range of thin silk to deluxe qualite fabrics ranging from 20 grams to 70 grams are produced in this catagory using both handloom and powerloom. This fabric are available in different shades as well as in checks and strips.
Dupion Fabrics
A speciality of Bangalore handlooms produced out of twisted filature warp and dupious weft is available in different quality ranges and shades. Dupion checks and strips are elegant in looks. Mainly used for dress material and cushion covers and furnishings. Dupion is the craze of the west. Dupion is a popular name amoung the overseas silk importers.
Charka Silk
Using filature in warp and charka in weft a thicker fabric is made on handlooms. For most of the Zari decorative sarees charka yarn is popularly used by the sari manufactures.
Chiffon
Using highly twisted yarn, a thin but strong fabric is produced on powerlooms, which after processing and finishing attains a soft and smooth texture. Chiffons are used for ladies garments, scarfs etc...
Chinnon
This is also produced from highly twisted yarn of filature in powerloom. After the final processing and finishing the fabric gets a soft but crimp effect.
Organza
A very thin fabric produced from highly twisted yarn. After a starchy finish the fabric gets a rough texture. Organza is used as sari material as well as for embroiderd garments.
Satin
Silk satins are a popular variety of fabric when made into dresses. Satin gives an elegant look. Banarasi satin sarees are popular for export and domestic markets.
Tabby Silk
A type of plain silk fabric produced in Kashmir. Tabby silk is mostly used for printed saress and scarves.
Murshidabad Silk
A popular silk fabric produced in the Murshidabad district of West Bengal used mainly for sarees and scarves.

Silk Care and Washing

Always wash your silks in soft water. Add a pinch of Borax or Ammonia, if the water is hard
Use a good soap either in the form of flakes or solution
To remove soap and solied spots rinse 2-3 times in warm water
Avoid harsh scrubbing
Silk with doubtful color fastness may be immersed in cold water with small amount of citric acid or acetic acid for 2 minutes before washing
Squeeze lightly by hand to remove water
Do not use washing machine for washing silk products
Dry in shade without folding (in single layer)
Dry cleaning is advisible

Storing Silk Garments

Store them clean and avoid wrinkles
Protect from insects, dust, excessive moisture and light
Avoid direct contact with wood
Avoid storing in plastics bags and card board boxes
Use white cotton cloth to cover the silk saree
Use brown paper cover to avoid blacking of Zari
Periodically expose your silk to fresh air and dry in sun shade
Donot use Naphthalene balls and use only Silica gel sachets in storage racks
Periodically take out your silks, do reverse fold and store it
If drenched in rain, wash the sarees in plain water immediately

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